Paris Fashion Week Men’s has officially wrapped. This season took a different approach for Fall/Winter 2024, seeing international designers deliver wearable collections that complement your existing wardrobe. On-schedule talent welcomed international attendees from all walks of life, jumping between common themes of tailoring, utility, and staple accessories that revamped traditional corporate uniforms. Japanese label AURALEE kicked off the first day of Paris Fashion Week by dropping its suit at the dry cleaners, seeing models walk the runway wearing strong-shouldered suits, pleated trousers, and tinted shirting accompanied by workwear garments in green, yellow, and pink tones. Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh’s BOTTER expanded into grunge, with the playful label mixing deconstructed cuts with fringed patchwork and double-layered button-ups.
Central Saint Martins graduate Wales Bonner showcased the best of British talent with a schoolboy-inspired collection, kicking off the collaborative craze by revealing a crocodile-printed adidas Superstar and bedazzled Timberland boots. Elsewhere, Chinese designer Feng Chen Wang doubled down on her relationship with Converse, debuting colossal Chuck 70s, while Junya Watanabe MAN went all in with New Balance, Palace Skateboards, Carhartt WIP, and more. Slim neckties appeared on the runways of multiple designers, dressed up and down with pettled prints, metallic embroidery, and glossy leather finishes. Utilitarian details emerged across Dries Van Noten, Paul Smith, and Kiko Kostadinov, while asymmetrical hemlines ruled at EGONlab. and Issey Miyake.
Read on to discover the top trends we discovered at Paris Fashion Week Men’s FW24.
Utility Meets Everyday Staples
Utilitarian accents reigned supreme throughout Paris Fashion Week, with wearable fashion becoming an identifiable trend on runways far and wide. Paul Smith, for one, guided the transformative agenda. “The inspiration behind my collection is to create wearable clothes. I wanted to create things that you can put in your wardrobe and that work with items you already have, which I think is essential right now,” he told Hypebeast backstage. The British designer’s FW24 range was carried by wool tailoring and nylon underpinnings, dipping technical gilets in saturated patterns and contrasting borders. Protective hoods attached to silk shirting with tonal neckties, while golden raincoats donned fur collars for an ultra-modern look.
Belgian designer Dries Van Noten took inspiration from vintage military gear, delivering an impactful collection that found equilibrium with solemn tailoring, reconstructed sailor uniforms, and functional outerwear. The devil was in the details at Dries Van Noten, with wide-lapeled blazers repurposed with reused textiles and ribbed cuffbands. Slashed workwear tops accented staple suiting with versatility, while buttoned coats ruled in bold orange hues.
Contemporary tailoring arrived on the runway with unmatched intensity, taking over dozens of collections with an eye for refinement. Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix‘s EGONlab. settled on the dark side for FW24, proving that partywear is never out of style. The brand manipulated masculine figures with cinched blazers and skirt-melded bottoms, while others arrived with broad shoulders and checkered patterns. Feng Chen Wang honored Chinese tea practices with harvested Earth tones, bouncing across leather suit trousers, slashed denim co-ords, and split-dyed tailoring.
Yohji Yamamoto‘s POUR HOMME highlighted current youth culture by slowing down his runway, dissecting his signature deconstructed styles through warped ensembles with missing lapels, uneven shoulder seams, and integrated shirt-and-vest combinations. He collided with Martine Rose‘s surprise display of transitional suiting, revealing cropped leather sports jackets alongside stripped, long-haired, and twisted variations.
Neckties Are Back
Corporate attire was all the rage this season, seeing essential office accessories merge with renewed tailoring across the six-day occasion. Japan’s favorite label, AURALEE, was ready for work with checkered neckties and plastic-covered keycards, seeing nine-to-fivers walk the runway holding pressed uniforms in a rush. Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton reintroduced western bolo ties with gemstone embellishments alongside silk bowties wrapped like presents.
Sarah-Linh Tran and Christophe Lemaire’s LEMAIRE abolished neckties entirely. They sent models down the runway with popped-open collars, harmonizing with Givenchy, who examined the “new gentleman” for its first showcase post-Matthew M Williams. Alexandre Mattiussi’s AMI paid homage to Parisian homelife with a decorative collection emulating bustling family homes. The designer delivered contemporary wardrobes for mothers, fathers, and children, portraying modern breadwinners in double-breasted suits with silk neckties. The attachment swiftly moved from runway to street, dominating local streetstyle in all shapes and sizes.
Brand collaborations have become essential to the Paris Fashion Week experience, with designers looking to stand out from the crowd through unexpected partnerships. AURALEE opened the first day by expanding its relationship with New Balance and revealed two dim-lit 990v4 colorways. BOTTER took to the pitch with Reebok to debut asymmetrical football cleats and co-branded coach uniforms, while UK darling Wales Bonner held an intimate showcase guided by her viral adidas alliance. She retooled the adidas Superstar for the first time, drenching the iconic model in crocodile-pressed leather before moving into workwear with Timberland, updating the 6-Inch Boot with glistening gemstones.
The lord of darkness – Rick Owens – enlisted London-based designer Straytukay to create experimental rubber boots inflated like balloons, simultaneously joining Leo Prothman to reinterpret the Kiss boot with strapped details. Junya Watanabe MAN, KENZO, and Kiko Kostadinov announced collaborations with industry titans, ranging from Levi’s to Nike and Palace Skateboards, seeing sacai lead Spiewak’s return with patched-out G8 jackets and KidSuper’s Colm Dillane prepare for winter with Canada Goose.