Historic New York-based label Spiewak is grounded in heritage, born in 1984 and outfitting military personnel during World War I and II. After several years out of the spotlight, Spiewak is relaunching under the Creative Direction of Konno San and has revealed a dynamic collaboration with sacai at Paris Fashion Week.
Chitose Abe‘s sacai held a spectacular showcase on the final day of PFW, revealing 65 looks leveled in deconstructed utility and avant-garde silhouettes. The brand’s Spiewak partnership was revealed on the FROW, where professional skater Mark Gonzales wore the iconic G8 jacket.
The collaboration is a new milestone for Konno San, who has grown his directorial expertise with Levi’s and Stüssy throughout his career. “In 1992, I bought my first Spiewak garment, the “N-2B TITAN CLOTH” in black. I was very impressed by the features of the Titan Cloth fabric and its high technical performance, such as resistance to a cigarette burn for a few seconds without forming a hole. I was drawn to the idea of participating in the rebranding of Spiewak — an authentic and established military brand — because I had used the fabric in the past for my brand “NEXUSVII,” says Konno San.
Spiewak’s G8 jacket is drenched in sacai’s rebellious identity, boasting a leather build with cartoon-like collaboration patches. The brand’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection also made its debut, promoting its serving warriors with reversible jackets crafted from durable Titan Cloth in Rayon and Nylon. Rounded coach jackets and workwear models in primary hues complete the collection alongside padded tote bag designs. “I personally love and own many vintage military garments. The selection was mainly focused on iconic jackets from the history of Spiewak and on items that could be reinterpreted in the new Titan Cloth. Of these, we chose the long G8 model, which Mark Gonzalez, the famous skater from the ’80s, wore in the iconic photograph taken by Ari Marcopoulos. This made the piece so memorable that it was later nicknamed “Gonz’s Jacket,” he concludes.
Take a closer look at Spiewak’s FW24 collection and sacai collaboration in the gallery above.