Copenhagen Fashion Week has continued to bless attendees with innovative runway shows and an eye for the here-and-now. While London, Milan, and Paris host the world’s largest luxury Houses, the Danish capital has become a playground for emerging designers looking to make a statement.
The Fall/Winter 2024 season was that and much more, bringing together dozens of talented creatives to showcase their latest creations across the five-day occasion. The Copenhagen International Fashion Fair championed thousands of international creatives from across the globe, welcoming them inside the city’s Bella Center to connect with industry insiders. CIFF recorded record-breaking numbers this season, with thousands of guests captivated by the bi-annual event.
A plethora of local designers graced the stage with impactful runway shows that proved they are ones to watch, with Nicklas Skovgaard and Saks Potts being key participants from kick-off. Won Hundred’s founder and creative director, Nikolaj Nielsen, celebrated 20 years of business with an archival runway drenched in authentic denimwear, representing the brand’s reputable craftsmanship by taking a trip down memory lane.
The second day was ignited by Eszter Áron‘s AERON holding its third runway show on Copenhagen’s experimental grounds. The collection found beauty in commonality, unveiling a womenswear-focused offering that passes time in style. Mfpen, J.Lindeberg, and STAMM were additional standouts, outlining their position as big players in the Danish fashion scene.
GANNI sat out of Copenhagen Fashion Week this season, abandoning its customary slot on the final day in order to highlight rising Scandinavian designers at the top of their fields. The large-scale imprint gave them a platform to shine through its inaugural Future Talent exhibition.
Copenhagen Fashion Week has come to a close, and Hypebeast has outlined select shows you might have missed this season from world-class talent planting their seeds in Europe and beyond.
Budapest-based label AERON has become synonymous with grand openings. Eszter Áron‘s label is a mainstay on the Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule, kicking off the second-day line-up with “an ode to the intersection of art and fashion.” AERON marked its third runway show by looking inward, highlighting the brand’s detailed design process for FW24. The collection was a step-by-step guide to standard human activity, taking inspiration from everyday lifecycles while finding beauty in normality.
The womenswear offering focuses on free-flowing silhouettes, delivered in soft tones counteracted by lively pinks, greens, and yellows. Leather trench coats marked commencement for busy businesswomen headed to the office alongside scooped tops and slouchy trousers, while suede dresses complemented wrapped knitwear to brace the cold. AERON also debuted a creative collaboration with historic visual artist Sári Ember, embracing her pattern techniques and sharp outlines across the FW24 range.
Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard’s joint label is a folklore playground, standing as the perfect mixture of playful sportswear with French accents drowned in grunge fun. Russo opened its own “Cul-de-Sac” for FW24, reflecting the designers’ suburban upbringings by igniting an outcast party that didn’t skimp on creativity. Models stumbled down the runway holding inflated balloon animals, grounding the collection in myths and fables birthed in Paolina Russo’s immersive storyline.
The young label marries into jolly partnerships, merging multi-layered knitwear with graphic sportswear across 25 vibrant looks. Thick-cut tops turned into asymmetrical skirts layered atop military trousers, while paint-smeared tees and denim sat beneath dirtied mini skirts in pure Y2K fashion. Discolored jorts, soiled hoodies, and bundled jumpers completed the collection in rainbow hues, confirming Paolina Russo as one of the brightest talents at Copenhagen Fashion Week.
After becoming a Zalando Sustainability Award finalist last season, Tatyana Chumak’s TG Botanical returned to Copenhagen Fashion Week with nature and technology. The brand’s FW24 collection was unveiled inside Copenhagen’s International Fashion Fair, which welcomed over 1000 global brands to exhibit new items to press, buyers, and local fashion fanatics.
TG Botanical stormed CIFF in the early hours of Thursday morning, taking over the bridged village with an environmental offering inspired by the great outdoors. The tactile range observed “the soil, the field as seen from a bird view, and the volcanic desert” across recreational materials that engage with the wearer’s perception of touch. Sensuality reigned supreme across the collection, overwhelming textured knitwear that wrapped the body in ‘90s silhouettes. TG Botanical revealed its first collaboration with Ukranian designer Dasha Tsapenko, utilizing plant-based yarn based on polypore fungus properties.
Nana Aganovic and Brooke Taylor‘s WOOD WOOD is undergoing significant changes, mirroring its dramatic shifts at Copenhagen Fashion Week with a completely silent showcase. Dubbed “The Copenhagen Interpretation,” WOOD WOOD shut down the city’s Thorvaldsens Museum — dedicated to Neoclassical sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen. The 16th-century artist was ahead of his time, mounting his stone-trimmed human sculptures over the marble venue.
WOOD WOOD pulled inspiration from influential 1970s icons, including Martin Scorsese’s Taxi Driver and Manhattan’s Studio 54. The upbeat collection was clad in Nordic mythology and was guided by paneled fabrics and unisex formalwear suspended in asymmetry. Masculine and feminine styles merged across cropped silhouettes with sportswear details, coming alive across suede tracksuits, star-encrusted windbreakers, and padded field jerseys. Theatrical motifs hit the stage with oversized collars and metallic accents, concluding the collection with a tranquil bow.
Finish design House Marimekko is identifiable through bold prints and colors, exploring joyful displays of abstract florals through its signature Unikko design. The brand’s painted motif celebrated its 60th anniversary at Copenhagen Fashion Week, paying tribute to the light-hearted masterpiece for FW24. Marimekko’s transitional collection goes from day to night in a flash, delivering several wardrobe staples that never go out of style.
Marimekko presented its all-new denim line on the runway, introducing “Marimekko Maridenim” with an extensive range of fluid silhouettes. Tonal florets bloomed on workwear styles with illustrative graphics, translating onto cozy knitwear and belted puffer coats keen for protection. Stripes were the name of the game in menswear, seeing Marimekko supply preppy uniforms destined for academic grounds.
Take a closer look at the collections you might have missed at Copenhagen Fashion Week above, and find more coverage across Hypebeast.